針(zhen)織服(fu)裝大都(dou)是(shi)以棉和(he)化纖棉紗為(wei)(wei)原料，其特(te)點是(shi)柔軟、有彈性、透氣、吸汗、穿著舒(shu)適(shi)，如運動(dong)服(fu)和(he)內衣等。針(zhen)織服(fu)裝作(zuo)為(wei)(wei)服(fu)裝除了有和(he)梭織服(fu)裝的共性方面(mian)外，還具(ju)有其特(te)性。
工(gong)藝(yi)流(liu)程：
紡(fang)紗→編織→驗(yan)布(bu)→裁剪→縫制→整燙(tang)→檢驗(yan)
(一)紡紗(sha)
紡紗(sha)的(de)(de)目(mu)的(de)(de)是使進(jin)廠的(de)(de)棉紗(sha)卷繞成一定結構與規格的(de)(de)卷裝筒子，以適合針織生產之用。在紡紗(sha)過程中要(yao)消除(chu)紗(sha)線(xian)上存在的(de)(de)一些疵點，同時使紗(sha)線(xian)具有一定的(de)(de)均(jun)勻的(de)(de)張(zhang)力，對紗(sha)線(xian)進(jin)行(xing)必要(yao)的(de)(de)輔助處理，如上蠟、上油等，以改善紗(sha)線(xian)的(de)(de)編織性能(neng)，提高(gao)生產效率和改善產品質量。
(二)編織
編(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)是(shi)通過織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機使(shi)紗線組織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)成線卷互相(xiang)串(chuan)套而成為織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物的過程(cheng)。這(zhe)也是(shi)針織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)服裝和梭織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)服裝的根本(ben)區別(bie)。
編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)方(fang)法可(ke)分(fen)(fen)為(wei)(wei)緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)和經(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)兩大類，作(zuo)為(wei)(wei)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)衣的(de)(de)面料大都是緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)。緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)是將一(yi)(yi)根(gen)或數根(gen)紗(sha)線(xian)由緯(wei)(wei)(wei)向喂入(ru)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)工(gong)(gong)作(zuo)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)上(shang)，使紗(sha)線(xian)順(shun)序地彎曲成(cheng)圈，且(qie)加(jia)以串(chuan)套而形(xing)成(cheng)緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)來(lai)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)這種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)器稱為(wei)(wei)緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)對加(jia)工(gong)(gong)紗(sha)線(xian)的(de)(de)種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)類和線(xian)密度有較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)大的(de)(de)適(shi)應性(xing)，所(suo)生(sheng)產(chan)的(de)(de)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)品(pin)種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)也甚為(wei)(wei)廣泛。緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)品(pin)種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)繁多(duo)，既(ji)能織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)成(cheng)各種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)組(zu)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)的(de)(de)內外衣用(yong)(yong)(yong)坯(pi)布，又(you)可(ke)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)成(cheng)單件(jian)的(de)(de)成(cheng)形(xing)和部分(fen)(fen)成(cheng)形(xing)產(chan)品(pin)，同(tong)(tong)時(shi)緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)的(de)(de)工(gong)(gong)藝過程和機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)器結構比較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)簡單，易于操作(zuo)，機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)器的(de)(de)生(sheng)產(chan)效率比較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)高，因此(ci)，緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)在(zai)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)工(gong)(gong)業(ye)中比重(zhong)較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)大。緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)類型(xing)很多(duo)，一(yi)(yi)般都以針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)床(chuang)(chuang)數量，針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)床(chuang)(chuang)形(xing)式和用(yong)(yong)(yong)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)類別等(deng)來(lai)區(qu)分(fen)(fen)。經(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)是由一(yi)(yi)組(zu)或幾(ji)組(zu)平行排(pai)列(lie)(lie)的(de)(de)紗(sha)線(xian)分(fen)(fen)別排(pai)列(lie)(lie)在(zai)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)上(shang)，同(tong)(tong)時(shi)沿縱向編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)而成(cheng)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)來(lai)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)這種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)器稱為(wei)(wei)經(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。一(yi)(yi)般經(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)脫(tuo)散性(xing)和延伸性(xing)比緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)小，其結構和外形(xing)的(de)(de)穩定性(xing)較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)好，它的(de)(de)用(yong)(yong)(yong)途也較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)廣，除(chu)可(ke)生(sheng)產(chan)衣用(yong)(yong)(yong)面料外，還可(ke)生(sheng)產(chan)蚊帳、窗(chuang)簾、花邊裝飾織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)、醫用(yong)(yong)(yong)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)等(deng)等(deng)，經(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)同(tong)(tong)樣也可(ke)以以針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)床(chuang)(chuang)、織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)型(xing)來(lai)進行區(qu)分(fen)(fen)。
(三)驗(yan)布
由(you)于坯布的質量直接關系到成(cheng)(cheng)品(pin)的質量和產量，因此裁剪(jian)(jian)前，必須根(gen)據裁剪(jian)(jian)用(yong)布配(pei)料單，核對匹數、尺寸(cun)、密度、批號、線密度是(shi)否(fou)符合要求，在驗布時對坯布按標(biao)準逐一(yi)進行檢(jian)驗，對影響成(cheng)(cheng)品(pin)質量的各類疵(ci)點，例如色花、漏針、破洞、油污等須做好標(biao)記及質量記錄。
(四)裁(cai)剪
針(zhen)織服裝裁剪(jian)的(de)主要工(gong)藝過(guo)程：
斷(duan)料→借疵→劃樣(yang)→裁剪→捆扎(zha)。
借(jie)疵是提高(gao)產(chan)品質量、節省(sheng)用料(liao)的重要一環，斷料(liao)過程中(zhong)盡(jin)可能將坯布上的疵點借(jie)到裁耗部位或縫合處。
針織面料按經(jing)向(xiang)網目輔料裁剪(jian)，裁剪(jian)一般采用套(tao)(tao)裁方式，常用的有平套(tao)(tao)、互套(tao)(tao)、鑲套(tao)(tao)、拼接套(tao)(tao)、剖縫套(tao)(tao)等。
針織(zhi)面(mian)料在裁(cai)剪中應注意以下事項：
(1)不(bu)要將(jiang)有(you)折疊痕跡處(chu)和有(you)印花(hua)的(de)邊緣處(chu)使用在服裝(zhuang)的(de)明顯部位。
(2)剪裁中不(bu)要使用錐孔標(biao)記(ji)，以免影響成(cheng)衣(yi)的外觀。
(五)縫制(zhi)
我國針(zhen)織工業現有縫制工藝及設備是以中、高(gao)速平縫機(ji)(俗稱“平車(che)(che)”)、中、高(gao)速包縫機(ji)(俗稱“拷克(ke)車(che)(che)”)、繃縫車(che)(che)等縫紉機(ji)機(ji)型為主。
由于針織(zhi)(zhi)織(zhi)(zhi)物是由線圈(quan)串套組成，裁剪后的(de)衣片(pian)邊(bian)緣(yuan)容易發生脫散，故(gu)應先將(jiang)衣片(pian)邊(bian)緣(yuan)包縫(feng)(俗稱“拷邊(bian)”)后再(zai)用平(ping)縫(feng)機(ji)等縫(feng)制(zhi)加(jia)工(gong)。平(ping)縫(feng)機(ji)和包縫(feng)機(ji)是縫(feng)制(zhi)針織(zhi)(zhi)時裝的(de)主要(yao)機(ji)種。在縫(feng)制(zhi)過程中一般(ban)要(yao)注意掌(zhang)握以下(xia)要(yao)點。
1.縫跡 由于針(zhen)織(zhi)面(mian)料(liao)的織(zhi)物具有縱向和橫向的延伸性(xing)(xing)(即(ji)彈性(xing)(xing))的特點(dian)及邊緣線圈易脫散的缺點(dian)，故縫制針(zhen)織(zhi)時裝的縫跡應滿(man)足：
(1)縫跡應(ying)具有與針織織物(wu)相(xiang)適應(ying)的拉伸性和強力。
(2)縫跡應能防(fang)止(zhi)織物線圈(quan)的脫散。
(3)適當控(kong)(kong)制(zhi)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)跡(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)密度(du)。如厚型織(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)平縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)跡(ji)(ji)密度(du)控(kong)(kong)制(zhi)在(zai)9～10針/2cm，包(bao)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)跡(ji)(ji)密度(du)為(wei)6～7針/2cm，薄型織(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)平縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)跡(ji)(ji)密度(du)控(kong)(kong)制(zhi)在(zai)10～11針/2cm，包(bao)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)跡(ji)(ji)密度(du)為(wei)7～8針/2cm。
2.縫線(xian)(xian) 一般純棉針織(zhi)面料采(cai)用(yong)9.8tex×4或7.4tex×3的純棉及滌(di)棉混紡線(xian)(xian)，化纖針織(zhi)面料采(cai)用(yong)7.8tex×2的彈力錦(jin)綸絲和5tex×6的錦(jin)綸線(xian)(xian)。縫線(xian)(xian)要達到下列(lie)質量(liang)要求：
(1)縫紉機(ji)用(yong)純棉線(xian)(縫線(xian))應(ying)采用(yong)精梳(shu)棉線(xian)，它具有(you)較(jiao)高的強度和均勻(yun)度。
(2)縫(feng)線應具有一定的(de)彈性，可防止(zhi)在縫(feng)紉過程中不(bu)會由于線的(de)曲折或壓擠發生(sheng)斷線現象。
(3)縫線必(bi)須具有柔(rou)軟性。
(4)縫(feng)(feng)線必須條(tiao)干均勻光滑，減少縫(feng)(feng)線在線槽和針孔中受阻或(huo)摩(mo)擦，避免造成斷線和線跡張力不(bu)勻等疵點。
3.縫針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen) 縫紉機針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)又稱縫針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)、機針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)。為了達到縫針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)與縫料(liao)、縫線的理想(xiang)配(pei)合(he)，必須選擇合(he)適的縫針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)。
(六)整燙
針織服(fu)裝(zhuang)通(tong)過整燙(tang)使其(qi)外觀平整、尺寸(cun)準足。熨燙(tang)時(shi)在衣內(nei)套入襯板使產品保持一(yi)定的形(xing)狀和規格，襯板的尺寸(cun)比(bi)成衣所要求的略大些，以防(fang)回縮后(hou)規格過小。熨燙(tang)的溫(wen)度一(yi)般控制在180℃～200℃之(zhi)間(jian)較為安全，不易燙(tang)黃(huang)、焦化。
(七(qi))成品檢驗(yan)
成品(pin)檢(jian)驗是(shi)產品(pin)出廠前的(de)一(yi)次綜(zong)合(he)性(xing)檢(jian)驗，包括外(wai)觀質量(liang)和內在質量(liang)兩大(da)項(xiang)目，外(wai)觀檢(jian)驗內容有(you)尺寸公差、外(wai)觀疵點、縫跡牢度等。內在檢(jian)測項(xiang)目有(you)面料單位(wei)面積重(zhong)量(liang)、色牢度、縮(suo)水率等。
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